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If you keep 'crankin' your going to crank the insert right out of the shaft.
This happened two weeks ago to a team mate and now he is sweatin' if
Predator will stand by their manufacturing defect warranty. You can also
damage the wood threads in the shaft on cues that do not use a mating insert
type pin using 'excessive' force. For some reason I have at least one
person approach me after league to take their cue apart after they have
torqued the shaft and butt together. I've never been able to tighten one so
much I can not get it apart but some of these bantam weights must have the
strongest one-way wrist action imaginable. Mine just happens to be stronger
going in the other direction 8^{)).
So, my answer would be 'snug'. If your cue seems to work loose at 'snug'
next time go to 'snugger' then 'snugger yet' and so on. Facing off the
joint may have solved your problem this time but if it happens again I would
look elsewhere for the problem. Even though you only probably lost .002" on
the facing off if you have a cue with a design that carries into the shaft
joint collar pretty soon the design won't match up.
Regards,
Stoney
"Yukon Ed" wrote..
> I have a few sneaky petes with both "rings at the joint" and
> wood-to-wood joints. How tight do you screw these cues together? I
> had one that would turn an extra 1/8 in., if you kept "crankin' "
> after the point most people would have stopped. Dale Perry "refaced"
> the joint in two seconds and the problem was solved. I've never
> experienced this with a stainless steel joint. Do you torque the
> different joints together differently?
>
> Billiardly yours,
> Yukon Ed
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