Re: ferrule change to reduce squirt/deflection

darren wrote in message ...
>wow, that does sound dicey. but i commend you on your ingenuity. i'm
>guessing the stud solution is much narrower than a regular tenon.

yes - less than half
>
> i think i might just do a straight swap of materials, keeping the
>dimensions the same or maybe losing a 1/4" with a lighter but not
>"lightest" material if it helps stability.
>
>I liked the buffalo horn suggestion from brent also (does it come in
>white?).

only if you can find the dreaded albino buffalo -:) - buffalo horn is
jet black looks like polished marble when it is smooooth


>
>darren.
>
>Is there a section in the FAQ that has ferrule materials and their
>relative weights?
>
>> at one time, Viking, and possibily others, used a 10 x 24 threded
>> stud instead of a tenon<maybe they still do> - the ferrule was
>> tapped and threaded so it could be screwed onto the 'post'
>> and glued to make a permanent bond - I always felt this was done
>> as a production technique to save time
>>
>> the problem for you is the metal stud would add weight at exactly
>> the wrong place -  sooooooo - here's a project proposal for you:
>>
>> 1. install a lightweight threaded stud<allum. G10-glass, etc>
>>
>> 2. get a capped ferrule of the lighest weight material you can find
>>
>> 3. tap and thread the hole to match the threads on your stud
>>
>> 4. flip the ferrule around and screw/glue it on "backwards"
>>     <open end out>
>>      BTW - I wouldn't trust attaching a tip to
>>      the resulting thin wall of the ferrule - so you might need to
>>      install a thin<minimize the weight, remember?> wooden
>>      plug in the tip end of the ferrule - some kind of 'needle' thin
>>      spacer back to the top of the stud might be appropriate here
>>
>> Conclusion
>> tho this method would seem to cover all your requirements
>> and limitations - I personally wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole
>>
>> Dale<don't say I didn't warn you>