Re: ferrule change to reduce squirt/deflection

wow, that does sound dicey. but i commend you on your ingenuity. i'm
guessing the stud solution is much narrower than a regular tenon.

 i think i might just do a straight swap of materials, keeping the
dimensions the same or maybe losing a 1/4" with a lighter but not
"lightest" material if it helps stability.

I liked the buffalo horn suggestion from brent also (does it come in
white?).

darren.

Is there a section in the FAQ that has ferrule materials and their
relative weights?

> at one time, Viking, and possibily others, used a 10 x 24 threded
> stud instead of a tenon<maybe they still do> - the ferrule was
> tapped and threaded so it could be screwed onto the 'post'
> and glued to make a permanent bond - I always felt this was done
> as a production technique to save time
> 
> the problem for you is the metal stud would add weight at exactly
> the wrong place -  sooooooo - here's a project proposal for you:
> 
> 1. install a lightweight threaded stud<allum. G10-glass, etc>
> 
> 2. get a capped ferrule of the lighest weight material you can find
> 
> 3. tap and thread the hole to match the threads on your stud
> 
> 4. flip the ferrule around and screw/glue it on "backwards"
>     <open end out>
>      BTW - I wouldn't trust attaching a tip to
>      the resulting thin wall of the ferrule - so you might need to
>      install a thin<minimize the weight, remember?> wooden
>      plug in the tip end of the ferrule - some kind of 'needle' thin
>      spacer back to the top of the stud might be appropriate here
> 
> Conclusion
> tho this method would seem to cover all your requirements
> and limitations - I personally wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole
> 
> Dale<don't say I didn't warn you>