Re: ferrule change to reduce squirt/deflection

darren wrote in message ...
>if i move from a 11.5mm x 1inch long, phenolic ferrule to a lighter
>thermoplastic ferrule of the same dimnsions - how much reduction in
>squirt can i honestly expect?
>
>the phenolic really looks nice but with a 11.5 tip and long conical
>taper i was expecting less squirt than i'm getting.
>
>Is there any way to shorten the ferrule without shortening the
>effective length of the shaft/cue? i honestly don't understand the
>tenoning process.
>
>i've also heard of thinning the wall of the ferrule. but this one is
>already pretty skinny if not thiin.
>TIA, and happy thanksgiving.
>
>darren

at one time, Viking, and possibily others, used a 10 x 24 threded
stud instead of a tenon<maybe they still do> - the ferrule was
tapped and threaded so it could be screwed onto the 'post'
and glued to make a permanent bond - I always felt this was done
as a production technique to save time

the problem for you is the metal stud would add weight at exactly
the wrong place -  sooooooo - here's a project proposal for you:

1. install a lightweight threaded stud<allum. G10-glass, etc>

2. get a capped ferrule of the lighest weight material you can find

3. tap and thread the hole to match the threads on your stud

4. flip the ferrule around and screw/glue it on "backwards"
    <open end out>
     BTW - I wouldn't trust attaching a tip to
     the resulting thin wall of the ferrule - so you might need to
     install a thin<minimize the weight, remember?> wooden
     plug in the tip end of the ferrule - some kind of 'needle' thin
     spacer back to the top of the stud might be appropriate here

Conclusion
tho this method would seem to cover all your requirements
and limitations - I personally wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole

Dale<don't say I didn't warn you>