Re: ferrule change to reduce squirt/deflection

   Most cues have a 5/16th" tenon. I go down to a 1/4" tenon when using an
ivory ferrule as they are so prone to cracking I try to make their walls as
thick as possible.
The bad thing about a narrow tenon is that they are much easier to break off
on a miscue. Once a shaft is made there's not much that can be done about
length. A long ferrule is not needed so when making a new shaft a very short
ferrule could be put on with a very short tenon and then it could be made
narrower without fear of leverage breaking it off.
                                  Dick

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"darren" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote in message
news:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> "rhncue" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote in message
news:<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>...
> > I believe that if you go to a slightly lighter m/p ferrule material such
> > as Meucci uses it will crack very easly as the walls of the ferrule are
so
> > thin at 11.5mm. You can not shorten your ferrule and keep the shaft the
same
> > length.
> >                                              Dick
>
> Thanks Dick,
> is this because the tenon needs to be the same size on any shaft so
> having a narrow ferrule means the walls must be thin?
>  i understand how thin a ferrule would be when turned down from 13mm
> to 11.5mm. But his shaft was made to be 11.5mm and not 'turned down'
> to 11.5mm.  Is it possible the tenon is smaller having been built to
> accomodate the skinny ferrule (possibly giving me room for my not too
> thin, light weight ferrule)?
>
> I'm hoping there's something i can do without losing length.
> darren.