Re: Mounting alpine bindings

Terry Hill wrote:

> If anybody could help me out with this, I would appreciate it. I have an old 
> pair of downhill skis that I picked up recently that seemed pretty good, and 
> were the right size for me, but they had old bindings on them.  I was thinking 
> that they would make a great second pair of skis for spring skiing or for use 
> on days when conditions are less than optimal. Anyway, I bought a pair of 
> Solomon 637 bindings on eBay, and I want to install them myself, but since I 
> have never done it before, I need a few tips. My plan is to put them on myself 
> and then take the skis in for a tune-up and binding adjustment. I understand 
> that you have to find the ski balance point with a straightedge, and I do have 
> the right mounting screws, as they came with the bindings, and I know that you 
> have to fill the screw holes with epoxy glue. What I don't know is where 
> exactly do I position the bindings for mounting? How do I know how far apart 
> to put the bindings? Do I just hold the bindings up against the boot, or what? 
> And do I balance the ski with the boot in place? Any tips would be greatly 
> appreciated

I'm sorry to say that most of what you "know" is wrong.

First, Salomon 637s are old; they don't appear on the 2002-2003 bindings 
indemnification lists, so they certainly didn't reappear on the current 
lists (the Salomon x57 series bindings are the oldest bindings Salomon 
indemnified in 2002-3.)

Second, Alpine skis almost all have a boot toe mark on the ski; some 
have a boot sole center mark on the ski. The boots have a mount point 
molded into the sole. Up to you to know which type of mark. If no mark, 
you find the mount mount by either the running surface method of the 
cord method (look them up in a good ski mechanic's book.)

Third you use wood glue, not epoxy in the screw holes - it's only for 
sealing against moisture, not for retention - you want to be able to 
remove the screws eventually.

How far apart to mount toe/heel bindings depends on the range of binding 
heel adjustment (usually center the heel in its track, unless you have 
special requirements) and pre-load travel distance requirements. Then 
you just center-line the bindings, drill (and tap, if there's a metal 
top-skin on the ski,) without punching through the base, but deep enough 
the screw doesn't dimple the base, lube with wood glue, and screw down 
to torque specs. Mount the second ski identical to the first.

Then, of course, you adjust to boots for proper pre-load, set the 
release to DIN standards, and fully test both release torque and 
function, discarding the bindings if they fall out of spec bounds.