Re: Nikon N65 taking a pic of the moon

Having done it on occasion (including last month's lunar eclipse) with
both film and digital cameras, I think I can give you an assist.

First, Al is exactly right -- you need a long lens to get a reasonable
image.  300 mm is the absolute minimum; to FILL a 35mm frame, you need
more like 3,000 mm!  And with a long lens, better mount the camera on
a good tripod.  Use a cable release (bulb) or a self-timer setting if
you can, so your hand isn't on the camera when the picture is taken.

Second, override the auto-focus and focus at infinity (find a street
lamp or some other outdoor lights at least 500 feet from where you
are).

Third, use an exposure about one stop longer than sunny sixteen (right
again, Al).  Example: for ISO 200 film (or digital if your camera can
do that), f/16 for 1/125th would be pretty good.

Finally, practice... practice... practice!


On Mon, 01 Dec 2003 02:44:40 -0000, Al Denelsbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

>"IN Packer Fan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote in
>news:[EMAIL PROTECTED]: 
>
>> Ok,  I am not skilled in any way in photography...  I just upgraded
>> from a decent point & shoot Nikon Zoom Touch 600 to a Nikon N65 (28-80
>> lens)... 
>> 
>> I want to take a picture of the moon, but even when I change the
>> setting from auto to nighttime, when I push the shutter button it will
>> autofocus out, then in  and refuse to take the picture.  I would
>> appreciate somebody helping me figure out which settings to use.
>
>
>       Doing a Google search on moon photography will net you a ton of info. 
>Generally, there isn't any autofocus or autoexposure camera that is likely 
>to get a decent picture by itself - you'll have to override the settings.
>
>       It would take a significant focal length (500mm+) to get the moon big 
>enough in the frame to have the meter and AF work, and you'd have to be 
>spot-metering (otherwise it will compensate for all the blackness in the 
>frame). Go for manual focus. You will hear people suggest using the "Sunny 
>16" rule for a *full* moon (at f16, your shutter speed should be the 
>reciprocal of your film speed, 1/100 second for ISO 100); personally, I 
>think f11 works better. Mileage may vary, so bracket the exposure. And 
>you'll be increasing exposure the farther the moon is from full, because 
>the reflected light decreases. Same holds for lower on the horizon, hazy 
>skies, and so on.
>
>       This exposure is too low to catch much else in the frame, including 
>stars and foreground details unless brightly lit. If this is your 
>intention, you may have to do a multiple exposure (which means a firm 
>tripod and a remote release is recommended). Get the dim features before 
>the moon has entered the frame, or after it leaves, otherwise you'll 
>overexpose the moon into a featureless flare.
>
>       Good luck with it, and be creative!
>
>
>       - Al.