Re: Your favorite 8x10 film/developer combination

Which dilution of Xtol is that, I think it is 1:1 at 21 degrees?  I prefer
1:3 as it seems to fool the eye into thinking my lenses are sharper than
they really are.  For that dilution, the time would be 14 minutes at 20
degrees.  While there is a small increase in grain (due to the longer
developing time, I guess), for large format sheet film that does not seem to
be significant in the final print(s).

Dick
"Alexis Neel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote in message
news:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] (brook) wrote in message
news:<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>...
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Collin Brendemuehl) wrote in message
news:<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>...
> > > Since I'm new to 8x10 my film is current some thrift-shop-purchased
> > > TMax 100 which I'm developing in HC-110(b).  Results are pretty nice
> > > though TMax is far from my favorite film.  Never really like it
overall.
> > >
> > > What are my other b&w 8x10 options and the results you've gotten from
them?
> > > Or is 8x10 just so large that they're all, with the right combination
> > > & practice, going to produce very nice results?
> > >
> > > (I'm using an old Kodak 2D with a Nikkor-M 300/9 & will try to scan a
> > > contact print or two next week.)
> > >
> > >
> > > TIA,
> > >
> > > Collin
> > This is really going to depend on your final choice of material to
> > print on. If you are going to contact print, you really should
> > consider the AZO/amidol combo. This will require a much denser and
> > contrastier negative than any of the enlarging papers will handle
> > well. I like ABC pyro, with Sandy Kings Pyrocat HD being another good
> > choice. I use HP5+.
> > Brook
>
>
>
> Tri-X in Xtol developed for 8 minutes.  Prints nicely on a grade 1 1/2
> with rich ,id range contrast, but not to heavy highlights to blow out.
>
> Alexis
>
> www.alexisneel.com