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Matt,
I use the jewelers sawblades all the time. I've used 5" blades from MSC
Industrial for at least 15 years. Basically they last forever and are very
cheap. I use .023, .025, and .028 blades for various fretting operations.
After each use I spray them with oven cleaner as the fine teeth clog
quickly. If I'm cutting a dozen fretboards, I usually have to change to a
clean blade by the 8th fretboard or so. I use .057 blades for making
kerfing. You can see an article with photos of this operation on my website
page http://www.pegasusguitars.com/making_kerfing.htm You can find adapters
to go from the 5/8" table saw arbor to the 1" blade hole size at a good
hardware store. They cost 75 cents or so. Some hardware stores won't know
what you're talking about, but just call around and you'll find them. I had
to sand mine thinner as they are made for thicker blades, but it was easy. I
just drilled 1" holes in a thin sheet of wood, pressed in the adaptors, and
ran them through the thickness sander. I'm sure you could do it pretty fast
by hand too. Maybe with a belt sander or file.
These blades are not so great for bindings and such though. Just go buy
a cheap 6 1/2" or 7" carbide tipped blade from Ace Hardware. Get the ones
with the most teeth. I use them routinely on my 10" tablesaw. They cut very
clean with not much waste. They are cheap enough that it does not hurt to
replace them once in awhile. Good luck!
Bob Gleason
www.pegasusguitars.com
"TinWhistle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote in message
news:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Is anyone out there using jewelers slotting saws, or slitting saws for
> operations such as cutting bindings, purflings, or even cutting fret
slots.
>
> If so, how do you mount the saw blades? in a table saw? I've not found
> a source of blades with a compatable arbor/hole size.
>
> These blades are fairly cheap ($10) and I hoped would provide a way to
> cut thin pieces without so much waste.
>
> I know that one of the luthier supply houses sells a table saw blade with
a
> ~0.20" kerf, ... but this is pretty expensive.
>
> Other suggestions for milling bindings? slotting fingerboards?
>
> Thanks,
> Matt ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
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