Re: Band Saw Question, before I buy

In article <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Kelo Waivio" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
> If all you EVER will do is rocket parts the bench top saw will be "OK". The
> Pro-Tech or Tool Shop brand 9" saw that Menards sells is pretty much
> identical to the Ryobi. I bought this and once it's tuned they work fine.
> The blade speed is too fast for metal work though. However, since then I've
> also gotten into woodworking and kick myself repeatedly for not saving up
> and buying a real band saw, like a 14" Jet, Grizzly or Delta.

Most of the low end bench top tools these days are Chinese imports, but all
of the name brand stuff looks to me to be of significantly better quality
than the off brand stuff like Pro-Tech or Tool Shop or <?>hawk or
doesn't-even-have-a name.
> 
> No matter what size you get, get cool blocks to replace the hardened steel
> guide jaws that come with the saw. I got the small 1/8" square ones at
> Menards. If you even just kiss the blade teeth with the hardened blocks
> you'll ruin the blade at worst and mess up the tooth kerf and cause it to
> not cut straight at best. The cool blocks are soft wear resistance material
> and you can bury the blade, teeth and all, right into the guide blocks. They
> make for much straighter cutting.

Absolutely agree with this. Every band saw should have cool blocks instead
of the metal guides.

> Taiwan and they certainly aren't junk. I often wonder if some of the the
> Harbor Freight tools are the QC rejects from these :-)

I've wondered too...

> If you get a drill press get a floor model or the largest bench model you
> can find with the most HP, speed ranges and SPINDLE STROKE. The off brand
> bench top presses don't have alot of balls or capacity. Here again I kick
> myself for buying the small off brand bench top model and will soon be
> investing in a real drill press.

I went with a bench model due to space limitations. In fact all my power
tools are bench tools as opposed to free standing. The most useful feature
lacking on the smaller drill preses, other than the throat itself, is the
crank to raise and lower the dable. That was one of the biggest reasons I
upgraded mine a few years ago.

> More cast iron is good, really :-)

I'd have to agree with that.

        Bob Kaplow      NAR # 18L       TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD"
                >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<<
Kaplow Klips & Baffle:  http://nira-rocketry.org/LeadingEdge/Phantom4000.pdf
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