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1" jaws come with the Nova? If so, a simple drill bit can do for you. Else, reduce one end to a size capable of being gripped in compression, then make another which will make a second grip ahead of your protobowl, or as many as will fit on the cylinder. Cut apart or part off, grip and hollow. Rouging gouges are suitable for the convex portions of bowls, but don't have the cross-section for any but shallow hollowing. Use your other gouges, or get a bowl gouge. Sneak a peek at http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeorge/index.html for some gouge angles and techniques. "WoodTurner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote in message news:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Hi, > > I just have a few quick questions as to the procedure of bowl turning. > I have a lathe with standard spur drive center, a faceplate and picked up a > Nova chuck. > > I have some large branch pieces I'm trying to turn small dishes/bowls out > of. > First I set the piece up between centers and truned it round. > > But what should be the next step? I though next i should cut out a section > so the Nova can grip onto it on one of the ends, but I couldn't figure out > how to di this when its between centers, so I took if off and attached it to > the faceplate to give me one free end to work with. I then cut a flange, and > this is where I am at so far. Is that the right way to do it? Or is there a > better/easier way? > > Also, I have a 3/4" Roughing gouge... I can't get the hang of it. previously > I had a cheapie set of carbons steel tools and it had a roughing gouge with > a much shallower angle on the gouge (it was not as near rounded), and I > found it easier to use. Whats the difference between? > > TIA > >
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