Re: How to Hang Traverse Rods

Ok, the center bracket is not important, meaning you should have 2 inside
brackets for that width. They could be about 44-48 inches in from the end
bracket on each side. They should hold better than a single center bracket.
The general rule is one inside bracket for every 40-50 inches, even for
sheers. This ensures a trouble free rod. Buy the best quality rod you can
afford. This makes a difference too.
You are correct about deducting the return and overlap from the drapery
width to determine the rod width. Make sure you measure the returns, some
are smaller or larger than others. A 4-5 inch return is standard for a
custom drapery, most ready-mades are 3 - 3 1/2 inches.
If you absolutely cannot get into a stud, you will need to use toggle bolts.
Make sure you use metal toggle bolts with a wide spreader, at least an inch
and a half. You will need to predrill a hole to get the toggle through.
Some older homes, like mine, have lathing and plaster walls, but the plaster
is very thick, and sometimes I need to use at least a 2 inch screw in order
to find it and get it to grab. Just banging a nail in the wall to locate the
wood sometimes doesn't work. So check the walls carefully around the window.
Another alternative is to hang them from the ceiling if you have the length
in the drapery to do that. Are you using a plain rod or a decorative rod?
For a plain rod, don't forget to add 1 inch to the height of the bracket
based on your drapery length. If your drapery is 84" then mount the rod 85"
above the floor. This allows for traversing the rod without dragging the
drapery. The top of your drapery should be a minimum 1/4 inch above the top
of the rod. I recommend drapery pins rather than hooks, this is what the
pros use. Place 1 pin in the drapery and check the fit on the rod. Make a
small dot at the bottom of the pin, on the drapery fabric, with a pencil.
Remove the pin and measure the distance from the top of the drapery to the
dot. Now put a dot on each of the pleats to mark where you will insert the
pin. Insert all the pins and hang. If you have a hard time inserting the
pins, run each one thru your hair before inserting. It's an old trade
secret, makes the pin glide in, works with all pins of any kind.
If you are using a deco rod, it's a little harder, as the rings hold the
drapery and are sometimes several inches below the top of the rod. Let me
know if you need directions for that.
No jack stud? Wasn't that a code item in the 70's? Some contractors will use
the absolute minimum material for maximum profit, won't they?
Hope this helps you and let us know how it worked.

"Pennsylvania Lady" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote in message
news:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> "Warrior_13" wrote
>
> > What in particular did you need to know? I hang them myself without a
> > problem. Did it for a living a few years back.
> > Do you need to know how to determine the width of the rod in comparison
to
> > the width of the drapery? Or do you want to know how to physically
install
> > it?
>
> Thanks for the clarification--yes, I need to know how to determine the
> width *and* what to do if studs aren't located at that point.  My
> mom's drapes are 150" wide, and from past experience, I know that
> wrapping that width drape around a three inch bracket, then deducting
> the three inch overlap in the center (they're center-closing) should
> make the width 138".  So from the center of her bay window, that makes
> it 69" each side.
>
> The problem is that her 70's ranch home contractor really didn't go
> overboard with his lumber, if you know what I mean.  In addition to
> there not being a stud at 69" from center, there's no jack stud above
> the center of the window, making drape supports there impossible.  If
> I put supports at the end of the windows (where there *are* studs),
> then the drapes will bow toward the center.
>
> So this is what I need help with, 'cause I want to get them up by
> Thanksgiving!
>
> Thanks.