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Tupelo doesn't fuzz up as bad as basswood. Most places that sell basswood also sell tupelo. "Chris Gray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote in message news:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > "Andrew Werby" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote in > news:[EMAIL PROTECTED]: > > > "Chris Gray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote in message > > news:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >> I've been stricken with the carving bug, and I've tried a number of > >> different woods for relief carving. Basswood is wonderful to work > >> with, but I keep having trouble with the surface of my finished > >> pieces. After sanding, it seems to have a rougher surface than when > >> I started. I've tried a variety of grades, but I wonder if it's just > >> an inherent property of the wood. Does anyone have any tips for > >> getting that "just carved" finish over an entire intricate basswood > >> carving, or should I just switch to a different wood? > >> > >> Thanks > >> Chris > >> punmaster2000 at nospam dot yahoo dot com > >> remove nospam from email > > > > [If you're looking for a "just-carved" surface look, then don't sand > > it. Use sharp tools to cut it, and if you need to smooth a surface use > > a scraper. Anytime you sand wood you will roughen it up to some > > extent; then it's a matter of using finer and finer grits to get the > > roughness down to an acceptable level. If you are going this route, it > > helps to raise the grain before finish sanding. Do it by sponging it > > with water or alcohol. This will cause patches of wood fibers that > > were lying down at the surface to rise up, where your sandpaper can > > rub them off. If you do this initially, then they won't rise up when > > hit with the wet finish compounds later on.] > > > > Andrew Werby > > www.unitedartworks.com > > Thanks for the suggestions. > > Chris >
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