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Yeah, sadly it's true....it is a horrendous amount of money to pay - last year I decided that it was the last time I was going to pay, so this year a few friends and myself rode in from Swansea to watch some of the stages. We rode straight past the police road blocks and straight into the car parks free of charge / hassle. Much better than paying a small fortune to stand behind yellow tape with a million other people. We still weren't allowed to move about the stages where the marshalls were, but it gives you more scope for riding down fireroads to other, less crowded bits of the stage. I'm definately going again next year, though maybe driving up to resolven with the bikes and riding in from there, it was a bit of a trip from Swansea! :-)
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