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Greg, I wonder if everyone wants the same plants you do. I have 5 tanks with low light and a variety of plants. I know I can't have the majority of the many varieties, but the plants, including Anubias, are doing their biological thing and providing nooks and crannies the fish seem to enjoy. I am not much of a gardener outside or inside, but when I finally bought low light plants I was pleasantly surprised with the growth, color, and variety I was successfully growing. I admire the beautifully planted tanks I have seen, but have seen one 30 gallon tank that I had to look carefully to see the plants were made of silk. Beauty and variety are important, but I am quite satisfied to have a tank that functions well even if the varieties available to me are limited. On Tue, 02 Dec 2003 04:03:44 -0500, Greg G.<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >On 1 Dec 2003 18:12:33 -0800, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Nick D) wrote: > >>Hi all... >>In my futile attempts to grow plants in my fish tank, I just purchased >>a Hagen Sun Glo which has 125 Lux reading for a 24" bulb, which I >>assume could grow some plants. On my next trip back to the Fish Store >>I notice a Hagen Life Glo which had 235 Lux reading. Apparently, as I >>understand it, Lux is a reading of Light Intensity (in a nutshell). So >>I'm wondering if a light with a higher Lux reading is better at >>growing plants, than say one with a lower reading. I am currently >>searching for the most powerful florescent tube I can find to grow >>plants in my 29gal. I realize spectrum has a lot to do with how well >>plants grow, but with only 2 tubes over my 29gal I need all the >>intensity I can get, right? >> >>Thoughts, Suggestions? >> >>Thanks, >>Nick D. > >Hi Nick, > >Intensity is important, but just as important is color temperature. >Various claims are made by manufacturers concerning their bulbs, as >they tend to be high dollar items - most of which is unjustified. > >The unit of intensity measurement known as lumens is more frequently >used in measuring lamp intensity. LUX is a unit of illumination equal >to 1 lumen per square meter; 0.0929 foot candle. CRI is a measurement >of how much like "sunlight" a lamp appears to the human eye. > >Problem is, many intensity measurements are made with the human vision >spectrum in mind. Thus what YOU see as a bright light, may not appear >as bright to plants in the photosynthetic realm. > >With that said, 2x 20 watt bulbs are NEVER going to be bright enough >to grow many plant specimens - period. You can throw money at bulbs >manufacturer/vendors all day, with all kinds of specifications, and it >just won't help. You can slowly grow low light plants, anubias, >crypts, and a few others, but that is it. You need more light at the >correct color temperature to grow medium to high light plants. > >One of the best PAR bulbs is a common 5000K tri-phosphor fluorescent - >available for about $3.50 at most commercial lighting vendors - maybe >even at your local Lowes or Home Despot. Phillips, Sylvania, GE all >make these bulbs. Chroma 50, Colortone 50, Designer 5000k, Ultralume >5000k, Alto Advantage 5000k, etc. Switching to T-8 bulbs (and >matching electronic ballasts) opens up a new realm of bulbs that are >more efficient and have more choices available. > >Read more than you wanted to know here: > >http://www.thekrib.com/Lights/faq.html' > >Greg
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