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Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part2
Posting-Frequency: 15 days
Last-modified: 2003/4/26
Version: 4.3
This section is generally revised every 220 days.
IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE.
Instead, reply to faq2 at that allpar /dot/ com address.
Thank you.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
DISCLAIMER:
While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the
information contained in this FAQ list compilation, the author and
contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for
damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
Some of the information is presented as opinion rather than fact.
The writers and the maintainer do not claim to be authorities.
information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is
given to the writers and maintainer; and that it is not published in
book or magazine form without the prior written permission of the
maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a FREE
copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for
formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer
([EMAIL PROTECTED] = David Zatz).
- - - - - - - - - - - -
If you did not obtain this FAQ from one of its
newsgroups or from the rtfm.mit.edu archives, it is probably
NOT a current edition. The latest copy may be obtained from
http://www.allpar.com/faq.html
- - - - - - - - - - - -
PART II
*************************CONTENTS*****************************
What should I do...
1. ... before I post?
2. ... about spammers? (Internet junk-mailers)
3. ... if I have problems with Chrysler?
4. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for)
Oil Filter Discussion
List of All Engines Since 1966
1. Guide to V-8s
2. New transmission designations decoded (new!)
List of All Body Styles Since 1966
***********************************************************************
BEFORE POSTING WITH COMPLAINTS/QUESTIONS
1. Check the FAQ. Most answers are there.
2. Please don't post messages like "this broke and I will speak to the
dealer about it sometime." Go to the dealer first; if they cannot fix
it, and it is not in the FAQ, THEN go to the newsgroup.
3. If you are having problems with Chrysler, and have not yet read the
relevant FAQ section, please do so. At least call them (800-992-1997).
4. If you are having problems with Chrysler and are angry and bitter
at them, an angry message or two is fine. But you won't help
anyone by going overboard.
***********************************************************************
WHAT TO DO WITH SPAMMERS
Brought to our attention by [EMAIL PROTECTED] and originally written by
Dr. Yvette Huet-Hudson. Edited by the FAQ maintainer.
The person responsible for the spam is probably not subscribed to the
newsgroup, and thus any response back to the newsgroup, will fail to
reach the offender.
An appropriate response is to forward a single copy to the person in
charge of the site from which the spam originated ("POSTMASTER", "root",
etc.),
pointing out that the spammer is probably violating appropriate use
policies.
It is inappropriate to attempt to flood the spammer's mailbox with mail
in response. This is probably in violation of your network's policies,
and it wastes bandwidth.
We would like to propose the following guidelines for reacting to
unwanted solicitation on or off your newsgroups:
1.Do not flame on the newsgroup! The spammer is probably not
subscribed, so you would just be adding to the noise level.
2.Remember the name of the company that sent you the ad, and make sure
never to buy anything from them. Call their corporate headquarters and
let them know how much you were upset by the spam. In many cases, the
companies whose products are featured in the spam acted out of ignorance
and genuinely did not know that this form of advertisement was not
appreciated. Educating them will make the spam company lose a customer.
3.Do not bother flaming the spammer. By the time you read the spam, his
account will already have been closed, assuming it isn't a bogus
account to start with. At any rate, the spammer will not bother reading
people's indignant replies. Spammers are usually well aware of what
they are doing, and are totally indifferent to your feelings. Replying
is just a waste of your time.
4.Do not flame the service provider. It is easy to say "You shouldn't
be allowing people like XXXX to get an account!", but it is impossible
to implement in practice.
All you need to spam millions of people is a free 10-day trial diskette
from any major online provider. There are unscrupulous people on the
Internet, just as there are in the rest of the world, and there isn't
much anyone can do about it, because until they speak up they're just an
e-mail address like any other.
5.Do not press the service provider for assistance in "tracing" the
spammer. In most countries it would be unlawful for them to release
this kind of information to you.
However, the spammer probably provided a snail-mail address or phone
number in his message, or some other contact point to place orders. If
you really want to find out more about him, this is a good starting
point, and it places you squarely in the realm of real world law.
6.If you want to inconvenience the spammer in retaliation for the
inconvenience you have suffered, do not do it over the Net! Mail-bombing
the provider's
address will inconvenience the provider, not the spammer, and in most
cases the
provider is a victim, just like you. It's going to cost them thousands
of dollars in wasted manpower just to discard all the flamage they will
receive. Instead, use the real world contact info that was provided with
the advertisement. This will reach the spammer, because this is where
he is hoping to receive the checks.
7.When accusing people or companies in public, check your facts
carefully before pressing the SEND button. Remember how spamming works:
the spammer abuses the computer resources and manpower of hundreds of
thousands of sites worldwide to deliver his advertisement. The victims
are you, us, and just about everyone on the Internet. Yes, even people
whose name or hostname is mentioned in the mail header are likely to be
victims; spammers have no qualms about forging mail, and even when they
don't, it still doesn't mean the parties involved had knowledge of the
spammer's activities and will share the profits.
The last thing you need, when you have just spent four hours answering
spam complaints from (other) victims, is to see a message where someone
accuses you and/or your employer and suggests that you should be shot
for the public good, or at least that someone should send the FBI to
your house, with messages suggesting more barbaric forms of punishment.
Such messages are taken seriously by some of the people they target and
may result in serious psychological trauma. They may also result in a
lawyer or police officer giving you a phone call. So far spamming has
yet to result in human death; please, let's keep it this way.
***********************************************************************
HOW TO DEAL WITH CHRYSLER CORP.
***********************************************************************
(Note: Thanks to Dan Adams for his help with parts of this -
Chrysler Corp should be grateful to have him!)
* The order in which you should deal with a problem is something like
this:
1. Speak politely but assertively with the service writer.
2. Ask to go for a ride with the mechanic and discuss relevant issues
wuth them.
3. Service manager.
4. 800 992 1997.
5. Zone (voluntary buyback negotiations IF APPLICABLE)
6. Arbitration / Consumer Affairs / Attorney General if applicable
AND needed.
* Be *polite* and *calm* but assertive at all times. Do not take "no"
for an answer but do *not* act angry or make threats. Chrysler often
helps, even out of warranty, but they need to be gently pushed; they are
generally defensive; and what they know about customers and customer
service would fit into a microscope slide. The Customer Center reps also
often don't know what they're talking about, so elaboration may help. If
all else fails, call back and speak to someone else. Always take down
their name for your reference!
* Know what you're talking about. Check the FAQ, TSBs, your computer
codes, and recalls before you visit the dealer with a problem.
* Don't expect Chrysler to change something because it's listed in a TSB
(technical service bulletin). TSBs describe solutions to problems which
may not apply to your car; they are *not* recalls, though Chrysler often
fixes cars out of warranty if there is a known problem and TSB on it.
(Daniel Adams notes that Chrysler sometimes extends transmission
warranties to 100,000 miles; there are extended warranties on some a/c
parts and ABS systems).
* Even if you are in an adversarial relationship, act in a friendly,
nonthreatening, non-adversarial manner. It works better and makes both
parties less angry.
* Daniel Adams writes: Chrysler corparte headquarters does tend to back
the field reps but a good service writer can get to them and help you
more than
you would believe. Don't take your frustration out on the service
writers, they carry quite a bit of pull behind the scenes
* Don't take "no" for an answer. Call Chrysler at 800-992-1997 from a
pay phone if you have to. They will call the dealer. Often, the dealer
will discover they don't need to charge you or keep your car after all!
* If your dealer keeps fixing the same thing over and over again, get
another dealer. Or try the newsgroup.
* If your dealer treats you badly, lies to you, refuses to do the work,
etc., get another dealer.
* If you have a continuing problem, speak to the people at the Customer
Center. You may need to deal with a zone rep, the final word at
Chrysler. Others can overrule them but THEY WILL NOT. Some reps are
good. Others are useless. There have been many reports that the reps in
some areas are exceedingly sensitive and need to be handled with kid
gloves. (See message about service writers above -- they can often get
action where ordinary mortals cannot).
* Note: if, as Continental Auto Body (of Wyckoff, New Jersey) did to my
car, your dealer should get your car into an accident, immediatly retain
a lawyer and find out what your options are. Examine the damage
personally before they have a chance to cover it up and lie about it.
****** NON-CHRYSLER SOLUTIONS ****** (after internal solutions fail)
* Contact your local consumer affairs department. Note: May not work in
states with a predominantly anti-government/libertarian attitude.
1. File an official lemon law complaint with your state. This
will get their attention and help negotiation. You can
usually get a better deal through negotiation than in court.
Hiring a lemon law specialist may help - good ones will offer
to negotiate *first.* Chrysler has a reputation for being easy!
2. Go through the Customer Arbitration Board. Results with this
group have been mixed.
* Most lawyers don't know the first thing about lemon law! A good one
will know the people at the zone office and will try to
talk nice to them to solve the problem. If negotiation is not their
first move, they are not the right lawyer.
* Your chances of getting cash are slim. You will probably get a credit
(buy-back). You will usually not get all of your money back. Chrysler
tends to follow state laws; most impose a penalty on each mile of use
before the first lemon-type complaint. This is normal and OK.
* Go through the latest TSBs again. Something new might have come up.
*Whenever your dealer lies to you or is too incompetent, send a letter
to Dealer Agreements or the Customer Center, Box 302, Centerline, MI
48015. It may not help you but it might help someone else! (Actually, it
may not help anyone else, either).
* If in a dispute with a five-star dealer, feel free to return your
customer satisfaction survey with very negative ratings. Dan Adams
assures us that these surveys are taken very seriously. Be aware that
all surveys are also given to the dealers - not just in aggregate form,
but the individual surveys - so be careful what you say, don't go
overboard. For more details on what happens to your surveys, see
http://www.allpar.com/fix/surveys.html.
* If you get into a dispute with an auto body shop, check your state's
laws to see what regulations and rules might be applicable.
************************************************************************
WHAT SHOULD I DO IF I HAVE THE FOLLOWING CAR/ENGINE?
Note: you are strongly advised to also visit the Troubleshooting
section (part 4). If a problem is noted, with no
solution, the solution is listed in the Troubleshooting section.
ENGINES
2.2/2.5 turbo:
-- check for fuel leaks and loose fuel line connections
-- head gasket failure (possibly due to heavy use)
Any 2.2 or 2.5 liter engine:
-- oil leaks from the valve cover gasket (over the spark plugs) and oil
pan.
-- oil seeping into airbox or air hose
-- poor idle from any number of causes (see part 5)
Any Mitsubishi engine
-- high oil consumption
-- replace the timing belts on time!
Carbureted V-8/slant six engines
-- replace the crankcase inlet air filter regularly.
-- keep a spare ballast resistor in your glove compartment
-- make sure the stove and damper (vacuum-powered valve) are working
Any engine without DIS (if you have a rotor, this applies to you) ---
-- Check your timing, it may have been set wrong at the factory.
-- Other problems may be caused by low quality rotor or different
brand rotor and distributor cap. (Standard-Bluestreak was
recommended
by Dan Stern. There have been reports of malformed Mopar 2.2/2.5
caps).
TRANSMISSIONS
4-speed automatic
-- 1989-94: watch for early failure and press Chrysler to pay for all
repairs.
-- all: Change fluid regularly with *recommended* fluid.
-- KNOW the right fluid (owner's manual ONLY). Do NOT trust mechanics.
The right fluid for 1988-1998 transmissions is Type 7176.
The right fluid for 1999 and up models is ATF+4.
Redline makes an ATF +3 specification transmission fluid called C+.
-- DO NOT use non-recommended fluid or ANY additives.
-- Check for TSBs and have the computer replaced if
needed. If a dealer doesn't feel/hear it, find another. Persist
until they follow the TSB. The new computer save wear and tear
on the transmission for various reasons. (Note: 1996+ transmissions
have software-upgradable computers)
-- MOST problems are due to MAINTENANCE ISSUES. Do the maintenance
with EXACTLY the fluids and parts recommended!
-- Chrysler has informally extended some transmission warranties due
to earlier problems.
-- AGAIN, DO NOT USE DEXRON! Do not trust any mechanic! ASK!
5-speed manual transmission, pre-1994 (non-MMC):
-- Seepage from the transaxle is common. CC may fix it for free
even if out of warranty. Then again, they may not.
BRAKES
ABS
-- 1990-93 Bendix systems (all brands) may have early problems.
On Chrysler products, the trouble-prone ABS-10 was on minivans,
New Yorker, Fifth Avenue, Imperial, Eagle Premier, Dodge
Dynasty, and Dodge Monaco.
*** There has been a RECALL on these systems and the warranty
on them has been extended to 100,000 miles, according to reports.
-- You may be able to prevent problems with ABS systems by
changing the brake fluid every 2-4 years.
See the Web site at http://www.allpar.com/
CARS
Neon -- see the Neon FAQ.
-- whining noise from the computer for 3-4 minutes after the engine
is shut, periodically, is normal.
-- engine light comes on: see Computer Codes, part 3.
-- bad head gasket (1995-97 models): seems to affect EVERY Neon.
Chrysler will pay for part of a replacement depending on your
mileage. Some will get a free new head gasket, some will pay
$100, some are not covered. The replacement should last longer.
-- Other Neon issues - see http://www.allpar.com/neon/neon.html
PAINT COLORS
Metallic paints are more prone to problems.
Blue seems to be more prone to problems.
Red is known for fading and peeling.
Get white if you want paint that actually stays on the car.
Note: this applies to all brands of cars and trucks.
There is a paint problem FAQ you may be interested in - it's referenced
at http://www.allpar.com/autolinks.html
******************** OIL FILTER DISCUSSIONS *********************
Removed due to age, except:
The Chrysler MoPar Severe Use filter, #53020311,
is a very high quality filter that fits Slant-6s, V8s, and
most 2.2 and 2.5 engines. [Check for physical fit before
installing].
There was a general consensus that Fram filters were
not well liked among newsgroup posters, but this was
a couple of years ago.
******************* CONSUMER REPORTS DISCUSSIONS *******************
Transferred to Web site, http://www.allpar.com/cr.html
***********************************************************
>From Lloyd Parker, updated since then:
**** Engines used in Chryslers since 1966:
* denotes an engine still in production for Chrysler vehicles
4 cylinders
1.4 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ
1.4 (CC/Rover) - in development, export only, for new minicar
1.5 (Sunbeam) -- Cricket (British)
1.5 (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ, Challenger, Sapporo, Arrow
1.6 (Peugeot) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.6 turbo (MMC) -- Colt
1.6 DOHC (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Colt
1.6 (CC/Rover) - in development, export only, for new minicar
originally; Now just for the Mini and export Neons
1.7 (VW) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.8 (MMC) -- Colt, Vista, Summit, Laser, Talon
1.8 (CC)* -- Neons outside the US
2.0 (MMC) -- Arrow, Vista
2.0 DOHC (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 SOHC * -- Neon
2.0 DOHC * -- Neon, Sebring, Avenger, Talon, Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze
2.2 -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo, Aries, Lancer,
Reliant, Shadow, Sundance, 400, 600, Caravelle, Caravan,
Voyager, LeBaron, Laser, Daytona, New Yorker, E-Class,
Executive, Limousine (note: TBI and carb versions)
2.2 turbo -- LeBaron, New Yorker, Limousine, Laser, Daytona,
Lancer, TC, 600, Shadow, Caravelle, Sundance, Omni,
Charger, E-Class, Shelby (note: MPI)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- Spirit, Daytona (joint venture with Lotus)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- TC (joint venture with Maserati)
2.2 (Renault) -- Medallion
2.4 (MMC) -- Vista, Summit
2.4* DOHC (CC) -- Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze, 1996+ minivans, PT
2.4 Turbo (CC) - PT GT, SRT-4, Mexican Stratus R/T
2.5 (CC) -- minivans, Aries, Reliant, Shadow, Sundance,
Duster, 600, Lancer, Dynasty, Daytona, Spirit, Acclaim,
LeBaron, Caravelle, Dakota (to 1995) - no carb versions
2.5 turbo (CC) -- minivans, Spirit, Acclaim, Shadow,
Sundance, LeBaron, Daytona (Note: MPI)
2.5* (AMC) -- Wrangler, Cherokee, Premier, Dakota (96+)
2.6 (MMC) -- New Yorker, E-Class, Executive, Limousine,
LeBaron, 400, 600, Aries, Reliant, Caravan, Voyager
2.6 turbo (MMC) -- Conquest (MMC)
[Coming up - Hyundai engine tweaked by Mitsubishi and Chrysler for use in
all three lines]
2.5 is 2.2 with balance shafts, minor changes. 2.0 (CC) is 2.2 with
different heads, fuel system, some tweaks. 3.9 V-6 (below) based on 318.
2.4 is 2.0 with balance shafts, other minor changes.
Chrysler families: 2.2/2.5, 2.0/2.4
----------------------------------
V-6:
2.5* (MMC) -- Sebring, Avenger, Cirrus, Stratus (based on 3.0)
2.7* LH series (1998-2001), Stratus/Sebring
3.0* (MMC) -- LeBaron, TC, minivans, New Yorker, Spirit,
Dynasty, Daytona, Stealth, Shadow ES, Acclaim, Duster
3.0 (Renault) -- Premier, Monaco
3.2* LH series (1998+)
3.3* New Yorker, Dynasty, LH series, minivans
3.5* LH series (1998+), Prowler (steel and aluminum versions) -
Chrysler considers the aluminum version to be entirely new
3.7* V-6 for trucks (2002+)
3.8* New Yorker Fifth Avenue, Imperial, minivans - bored 3.3
3.9* trucks (3.9 is based on the 318)
Chrysler-made V6 families are 2.7/3.2, 3.3/3.5/3.8, 3.9/318
MMC 2.5 and 3.0 are related
----------------------------------
The SLANT SIX (share basic design)
2.8 (170) -- Dart, Valiant, Lancer, Barracuda (Canada), A100, D100
3.3 (198) -- Barracuda, Challenger, Dart, Valiant, Duster, Scamp
3.7 (225)-- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Mirada, Diplomat, St.
Regis, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite,
Barracuda, Valiant, Duster, Scamp, Volare, Lancer
----------------------------------
STRAIGHT SIXES
(flat head) - various sizes - ended in late 1950s for cars
215 - Australian Valiants
245 - Australian Valiants
265 - Australian Valiants
4.0* (AMC) -- Cherokee, Wagoneer, Wrangler, Grand Cherokee
4.2 (AMC) -- Wrangler
Families: 215/245/265, 4.0/4.2, flat heads
The Australian straight sixes was built on a basic design intended for
use in American trucks. They changed from the slant six to
Australian-built 215, 245, and 265 sixes in 1970. The Aussie models had
hemispherical heads, so the 3-2barrel Weber version could honestly be
called a Hemi Six-Pack.
----------------------------------
V-8s
4.5 (273) -- Dart, Valiant, Barracuda, Coronet, Belvedere, Satellite
4.7* -- 1999 Grand Cherokee, Charger R/T (CNG), next-gen Rams
5.2* (318) -- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, St. Regis, Magnum,
Mirada, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Satellite, Road Runner, Barracuda, Valiant, Scamp, Duster,
Volare, Cordoba, LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, Gran Fury,
Imperial, Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer, Diplomat, Demon,
pickups and SUVs thru 2001.
5.6 (340) -- Charger, Challenger, Dart, Barracuda, Duster, Road Runner,
Ramcharger
5.7 Hemi (354) -- Ram trucks, LX cars (2002+)
5.9* (360) -- LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, 300, Cordoba, Diplomat,
Polara, Monaco, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Gran Fury,
Barracuda, Duster, St. Regis, pickups and SUVs thru 2002.
(345) -- Hemi Magnum engine for trucks, next-gen large cars
5.9 (361) -- Coronet, Charger, Belvedere
5.9 (360-AMC) -- Grand Wagoneer
6.3 (383)-- Newport, 300, Town & Country, Polara, Monaco, Coronet,
Charger, Challenger, Dart, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite, Road
Runner, Barracuda, Magnum
6.6 (400) -- Newport, New Yorker, Town & Country, Monaco, Fury, Road
Runner, Gran Fury, Charger, maybe Cordoba, Magnum
7.0 (426, Hemi & Wedge) -- Belvedere, Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda,
Challenger, Charger, Coronet, Daytona, Superbird
7.2 (440) -- Newport, New Yorker, 300, Town & Country, Imperial, Polara,
Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Challenger, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda, Daytona, Superbird
----------------------------------
8.0 V-10* -- Viper, Ram trucks (two versions, fairly different)
Truck version (cast iron) ended in 2002. Aluminum continues.
----------------------------------
Gary Howell clarifies:
** Small blocks (except new 4.7) **
273/318/340/360 are LA engines they look the same from the outside.
LA stands for "Lightweight-casting A"
[There is now an A/LA page at http://www.allpar.com/mopar/318.html]
273 cu. in. 1964-69 3.31 stroke and 3.63 bore
318 cu. in. 1968-91 3.31 stroke and 3.91 bore
340 cu. in. 1968-73 3.31 stroke and 4.04 bore
360 cu. in. 1971-91 3.58 stroke and 4.00 bore
The A engines (not LA) are older small blocks and look the same on the
outside to each other. The blocks are different in deck height, but
share some internal components with the LA block. The cylinder heads
and intake are different.
277 cu. in. 1956 3.75 bore and 3.12 stroke
301 cu. in. 1957 3.91 bore and 3.12 stroke
318 cu. in. 1957-67 3.91 bore and 3.31 stroke
The Magnum 318 and 360 engines are LA engines with different cylnder
heads. The blocks are physically the same as the earier LA engines,
except the oil
passage for the shaft mounted rockers is not drilled, because the Magnum
engines oil through the push rods. The boss is there if you need to use
the old style heads.
** Big Blocks **
There are eight different big blocks. The B blocks are short deck and
the RBs are tall deck. The RBs require a wider intake manifold.
[RB engine page: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/383.html]
B: 350, 361, 383, 400
RB: 383, 413, 426 Wedge (not Hemi), 440
All B engine use 3.38 stroke crank with different bores, and all RB
engines use 3.75 stroke crank with different bores. You'll notice that
the 383 is listed in two differnent places. There were two different
383s; the RB is very rare, only produced 64. The 350 was only produced
in 1958.
***********************************************************
NEW TRANSMISSION DESIGNATIONS
(Courtesy Daniel Adams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>)
On the new transmissions (e.g. 41TE), the numbers and letters actually
mean something:
4 amount of forward gears
1 the torque rating for the trans (on a 1-8 scale 1 lowest 8 strongest)
t or r transaxle or rear wheel drive
e or h electronic or hydraulic
The 1999 Grand Cherokee will have an optional 5-speed automatic.
***********************************************************
CAR BODY TYPES
(Below list courtesy Lloyd R. Parker; a tad out of date now)
-- Does not include minivans. Updated a bit 2003. Has some Jeeps.
A -- Valiant, Dart, Barracuda, Scamp, Duster, Lancer, Demon, Twister
B -- Coronet, Charger, Magnum, Monaco, Premier, Belvedere, Satellite,
GTX, Road Runner, Fury, Cordoba
C -- Polara, Monaco, Fury, VIP, Gran Fury, Newport, 300, Town & Country,
New Yorker, Imperial, Dynasty
D -- Talon, (Plymouth) Laser
E -- Barracuda, Challenger, 600, Caravelle, E-Class, New Yorker
F -- Aspen, Volare
G -- Daytona, (Chrysler) Laser
H -- Lancer, LeBaron (hatchback)
J -- LeBaron (coupe/convertible), Cordoba, Imperial, Mirada
K -- LeBaron, Executive, Limousine, Aries, Reliant, 400, 600
L -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
M -- Diplomat, LeBaron, New Yorker, Fifth Avenue, Gran Fury, Caravelle
(non-US)
P -- Shadow, Sundance, Duster
Q -- TC by Maserati
R -- St. Regis, Gran Fury, Newport, New Yorker
S -- Town & Country, Caravan, Voyager
Y -- New Yorker Fifth Avenue, Imperial
AA -- LeBaron (sedan), Spirit, Acclaim, Saratoga (non-US)
LH -- Concorde, New Yorker, LHS, Intrepid, Vision, 300M
LX -- Magnum, 300C, others
PL -- Neon
JA -- Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible
FJ -- Sebring, Avenger (based on MMC Galant)
SR -- Viper
XJ -- Cherokee, Wagoneer
YJ -- Wrangler
ZJ -- Grand Cherokee, original Grand Wagoneer
SJ -- Grand Wagoneer
PJ - Talon (based on MMC Galant)
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