Re: Need advice on drafty wood windows

I was looking at the JeldWen Zap Pack replacement windows.  You pull out the
interior stop and remove both sash, then put in new tracks, and new sash.
The attractive thing for me is that the new sash are double glazed, and from
what I can determine the new window tracks would be 'tighter than the
current aluminum tracks which seem to have a lot of flex in them.

I probably should explain that the current windows are 'only' about 20 years
old, double hung with spring counter weights.  They are a 'builders grade'
level window, and probably at the low end of what you could get for a wood
double hung unit 20 years ago.  These windows seem to leak a lot of air
around the tracks at the top of the lower sash.

I would be glad to try to install better weather striping to improve the
current windows, and have even thought about putting on storm windows.  We
are now getting ready to put an addition onto the area adjacent to this
room, and would like things to blend in on both the interior and exterior of
the house.  My contractor says he can match the existing windows with new
windows in the addition, with the exception that the new windows would meet
the new double glazing requirement that goes into effect for new
construction starting at the first of the year.  This may be a State of
Georgia requirement.

Again thanks for the input.

Don
"SPS 700" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote in message
news:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> "Greg DeBacker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote in message
> news:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > "Don Gross" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote in message
> news:<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>...
> > > I have a 'sunroom' that has double hung single pane glass.  This room
is
> on
> > > the North side of the house (odd for a sunroom) and is always cold in
> the
> > > winter, especially when it is windy.
> > >
> > > A contractor has given me a bid to replace the 10 windows with totally
> new
> > > units, however I can get a 'sash replacement' system from the local
home
> > > improvement store for about 6o % of the contractor bid cost.
According
> to
> > > the manufacturer this replacement system can be installed by a
> reasonably
> > > skilled homeowner in about 20 minutes per window, and all of the work
> can be
> > > done from the inside.  If the manufacturers marketing information is
to
> be
> > > believed, installing the replacements would amount to less than 4
hours
> of
> > > my effort with a savings of more than $1000.
> > >
> > > I have also considered putting up storm windows, but I would like to
do
> > > something with all of the windows in the house, and am not crazy about
> > > climbing around on a ladder to do that job.
> > >
> > > My question is does has anyone had experience with a 'sash
replacement'
> > > system such as this, and are you happy with the results?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > >
> > > Don
> >
> >
> > I've never done this work but I've heard from plenty who have. Forget
> > the 20 minutes per window working time. You can also forget most of
> > what the manufacturer tells you. They want you to buy their windows.
> > The wood sash windows can be made weather proof for much less cost and
> > work than sash replacments or new windows. If I were you I would head
> > over to the Old House Journal web site
> > (http://216.25.63.4/talk/index.shtml) and search on 'windows'. There
> > have been dozens of threads on window repair vs. replacement. You'll
> > be an expert by the time you finish reading everything there.
> >
> > There is also http://www.windowrepair.com/index.html
> >
> > Greg
>
> What kind of sash replacement windows are you looking at? Are they the
kind
> where you take out the old sashes and install a new side track and then
> install the new double hung sashes in the new tracks or are they one piece
> single hung windows that fit in the exissting frame once the sashes are
> removed? I have installed both types (I had been in construction for 20
yrs)
> and the my advise would be go with the latter. Unless the old frames are
> dead square(and 99% in old houses are not) the first type is a pain to get
> them to fit right. Sometimes they end up being worse than what they are
> replacing.
> As far as installing storm windows you still have the problem of air
leakage
> on the old prime windows. Not to mention the fact that the old prime
windows
> are just plain worn out. Sure you can try and fix them but it is a lot
like
> trying to make a silk purse out of sows ear.
> The best solution is to replace the sashes with new vinyl single hung
> windows made to fit the openings. You will want to measure the openings
very
> carefully and Order the new windows about 1\4 inch smaller in width and
> height. Just be sure the thickness of the new windows is the same as the
> total of both the old sashes.
> If you have never done this before figure about 2 hrs for the first couple
> of windows. Now for taking out the old and installing the new. First of
all
> you will have to remove the inside trim mouldings that seal the inside of
> the old sashes. For this I recomend buying a 5 in 1 painters scraper. It
> looks like a wide chisel with a kind of a point on one end. Carefuly
remove
> the old inside trim against the old sashes. You will need it to put it
back
> up once the new windows are installed. The inside sash will now come out.
> Pull the sash towards you and cut the ropes on both sides that are
attached
> to the weights. Set the sash aside. Now looking at the outside sash you
will
> note a small piece of wood holding it in place on the sides and the top.
> This is called a parting strip. There is a channel in the frame that this
> fits in to. Pry all of the parting strips out of the frames. Now the outer
> sash will come out like the inner one did. At this point you will notice
> that there are a double set of pulley wheels in the upper part of the
frame
> on both side that the old sask ropes went through and were attached to the
> weights. I have found it easiest to just hammer them flush with the frame.
> One other item you will need to order with your windows is a filler stip
for
> the sill. The sills are angled and the bottom of the nsw windows are
> straight. This will create a gap at the bottom of the windows on the
> outside. Fisrt of all install the filler strip on the sill. After this is
> done cut the outer window stop about 8 inches from the bottom and very
> carefully remove it. you will need to put it back after you have installed
> the new windows. Now take the new window and remove the screen and the
> bottom sash. Lift window into the opening and put it in bottom first. Then
> push the top untill window is upright and against the outer stops. Install
> the bottom sash and lock in place. Caulk around the window and reinstall
the
> old inside trim. Open the window and put the pieces of the outside stops
> back in place. The job is done except paint touchup and you never had to
> leave the inside of your house. I hope this helps you.
>
>